Means pertaining to permanent waving of hair



May 7, 1,929; Q NESLER 1,112,225

MEANS PERTAINING To PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR.

- Filed Jan. 13, 1927 2 sheets-sheet 2 2 INVENTOR.

BY m

@y M,- ATTORNEY.

Patented May 7, 1929.

CHARLES nEssLFn, or new Yon-K, n. Y.,

FFEQE.

ASSIGNGR TO THE NESTLE-LE MUR COM- PANY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ACORPORATION OF OHIO.

MEANS PERIAINING T PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR.

Application filed January 13, 1927. Serial No. 160,996.

Ihis invention relates in general to methods and means pertaining towhat is known as the permanent waving or curling of hair and moreparticularly to growing hair on the head. In this art in which the woundor coiled strand of hair is subjected to the action of moisturevand heatto produce the wave in thehair, there has for some time been in use astrip of absorbent fabric which is prepared beforehand by impregnatingit with a certain strength or concentration of hair-treating substancesoluble in water,-the strip being then dried and laid aside for futureuse, as set forth in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,592,150, granted toCharles G. Nessler, July 13, 1926, for method and means for hair waving.In using the said prepared strip it should be immersed in a givenquantity of water to dissolve its impregnated contents and then squeezedor washed out in said water to thereby produce the desired hair-treatinglotion for application to a strand of hair undergoing the permanentwaving process. j

By my present improvements I utilize the aforesaid character of preparedstrip by providing a series of the same having different definite gradesas to the strength of the solution which they are capable of producingand using them in waving they different varieties or classes of hair asexpressed by'the hairs liquid-absorbing capacity or porosity determinedby me in the manner set forth in a companion application for patentfiled in the U. S. Patent Office on even date herewith. One object ofthe invention is to provide means whereby the hair of each differenthead may be supplied with that strength of the hair treating lotionwhich is best adapted for its porosity or liquid-absorbing capacity inorder to have the strength of the lotion apportioned to the absorptivenature or character of the hair so that each kind of hair may be given asatisfactory wave and without the risk of injuring any hair. Anotherobject in View is to afford the hairdresser very convenient facilitieswhereby he'can readily ascertain-at the moment, what strength of theseries of lotions will best serve the purpose of waving a customershair, by merely taking the precaution to first sample-wave a few strandson theicus tomers head,'using a different grade of the lotion for thedifferent strands and thenselecting and using the one Whichshows thebest results. 7

A further object of the invention is to prevent these dried impregnatedstrips from losing any of their efficiency when using them, ashasheretofore been the case when the strip was placed in open fiatcondition in the lotion-forming water. In the old practice it was afrequent occurrence for the operator to use too much water for eachstrip, -thereby making the resulting lotion too weak and lowering itsgrade accordingly, while in other instances the loose strip was droppedin too much water and then removed and the squeezed out liquid retainedby itself for application as a lot-ion. In the latter case, anappreciable quantity of the contents of the impregnated strip becamedissipated in the water before being removed, thereby causing a materialreduction in the assigned strength of the lotion. I further seek toimprove the manufacture of these impregnated strips and also to put themup in a handy form so that their contents are conserved and they areequipped to avoid taking up an excess of the lotionforming water, at thesame time each strip after the lotion has been extracted therefrommayconveniently be used as a lotion-dauber or brush for applying thelotion to the hair.

There are other features of my improvements which also have importantadvantages in this art and which will appear from the more detaileddescription as hereinafter given.

In the drawings in which a preferred form of the invention has beenselected for illustration Fig. 1, shows a broadside view of my im provedstrip in flat condition.

Fig. 2, shows a similar view of the strip with the securing wire bentaround one end of the strip preparatory to rolling the latter thereon acore-piece.

Fig. 3, isa similar. view to that in Fig. 2, and shows the end of thestrip turned on itself to start rolling it up.

, F 4, is a perspective view of the rolled strip.

Fig. 5, shows a perspective view of a jacket or cover which is to beplaced over the rolled strip to house it.

Fig. 6, shows in perspective the rolled strip with its encasing jacket.

Fig. 7, is a perspective view, somewhat diagrammatic, showing theoperator holding with one hand a strand of hair on the head, while withthe other he uses the wetted rolled strip as a brush for applying thelotion to the hair.

Fig. 8, shows a side view of a hair strand wound around a curler-red andwrapped with one of the strips which is held in place by the bindingwire and the scalp-protect ing pad is also shown in position to protectthe head.

Referringto the drawings for a more de tailed description of myimprovements, 1 is a rectangular shaped piece of suitable absorbentmaterial made preferably of fabric, such for example as flannel, though.any suitable material which lends itself to impregnation with thesubstances used may be adopted, This sheet is made of a desired,

width and length to provide an oblong strip adapted, it so desired,after being wrung out in the lotion-forming water, to be wrapped in wetcondition around the wound strand of hair before inserting the'same inthe heater in the waving process.

In accordance with my said other invention, I have succeeded indefinitely formulating classes of hair dependent upon their relativea'bsorptivities and a series of grad uated strengths of lotioncorresponding in number to' that of the hair classes for treating thesame. I have also adopted a procedure in which the previouslyascertained 'absorptiveness of a hair specimen serves tov classify itand is utilized as the criterion which determines the strengthof lotionto be used in waving the hair; the number of hairclasses and lotiongrades being conveniently fixed say for example at ten for the practicaloperation of my inventions, as hereinafter more fully described. I havediscovered that the greater the liquid absorbing capacity of the hair,the weaker should be the" alkaline lotion used thereon in the wavingprocess; thus the full strength of the lotion should be. used only onhair having the lowest liquid absorptivity while the weakest lotionshould be used on hair having the highest absorptivity and in the sameway the intermediate classes of hair should have their correspondingintermediate graduated strengths of lotion used thereon in accordancewith their respective liquid absorptivities. y

In arranging the varied strengths of the hair-treating alkaline lotionin ten num bers to agree with the ten hair classes, lotion No. 10, hasthegreatest strength, N o. 9 the next lower degree of strength and so ondown to lotion No. 1, which has the least strength. Therefore hair whichI am able to class from No. 10 to No. 1, based on their relative liquidabsorbing capacities should have the graded lotions applied in thewaving process, as follows; hair-class No. 10, should have lotion No.16); hair-class No. 9, lotion No. 9, and so on down the scale to No. 1hair-class and lotion No. 1;-the two lowest hair-classes Nos. 2 and 1,exhibit very absorbing their assigned grades of lotion may receivesubstantially the same amount of the alkaline hair-treating substance 1nthe waving process.

Any well known means may be used for graduating the set of alkalinelotions as to their different required strengths, but I prefer to usethe Baum hydrometer because of its accuracy and ease of'operationL Inthis way the different grades are so adjusted by the Baum scale that thelotions whose specificgravities read by theB-amn scale respectively from1 to 10, have the corresponding series of ten numbers applied thereto sothat No. 10 is definitely known to apply to. hair classed as No. 10; No.9 to hair classed as No. 9, and'so-on down the scale.

The well known hair-treating lotions heretofore employed in this art mayalkaline be used withmy improvementsby adapting and regulating thestrengths of the same in the manner herein described, but I do notrecommend the use of borax. I prefer to use an alkaline lotion preparedfrom alkaline salts belonging to the sodium class dissolved in water andwhen incorporated in dried fabricstrips, a small quantity of suitableoil, preferably vegetable oil, may be added also a small amount ofadhesive or hinder, the said substances being soluble in the lotion fora hair strand such resulting lotion will be of the desired strengthsuitable for application to hair classed say as No. 10. I recommendthatten such strips be wettedin one ounce ofwater, either hot or cold,and then washed or wrung out to produce a quantity of the lotion whichWill serve for treatment often strands of the hair in waving it. Thestrips may be agitated in the water and the extracted solution shouldread 10 degrees Baum, whether in making the lotion.

U thereof, one tenth ofan ounce of water being used for each strip.

In the same .way I prepare the various different grades of strips fromNo. down, the starting solution being made weaker progressively in eachdescending grade and the reading on the Baum scale likewise beinglowered in a corresponding manner so that each of the strips of the samegrade when of the same size will yield a squeezed out lotion of definitestrength. Assuming that from its known liquid absorbing capacity thehair tobe waved is found from the sample test to fall within class No.7,the operator in waving it should use strips No. 7 to obtain the bestresults. The size of the strip maybe Varied as desired from thathereinabove given and the strength of the impregnated substances maythus be regrn lated, a smaller strip containing less of a given strengthof the lotion and a larger strip containing agreater amount, but in anycase the definite strength of each strip must be known and in some waymarked for use. I

If in using these strips they are placed in the'lotion-forming water inopen flat condition, I find that where there is an excess of such water,as is often the case, the loose strip loses some of its efficiency bythe dissipation of some of its impregnated sub stances in the waterwhich being in excess is not all used as lotion. In order to corn serveall of the assigned strength of the strip I form it in folded or rollshape and then preferably cover it with a jacket which is left open ateach end to let the water be absorbed by the roll when immersed'there-To this end the prepared strip 1 is turned or rolled on itself into rollform 3. When the strip is pro vided with a binding member or wire 2, Iuse it as a core orpart around which to roll the strip, by bending thewire around one end of the strip transversely thereof as shown in Fig.2, and then folding that end of the strip on itself at i, see Fig. 3,and finally roll it into the form shown in Fig. 4. Any suitable meansmay be provided for holdin the roll in form but I )referto use a jacketor cover 5, which is wrapped around the exterior of the roll so as toform strip is guarded against and the strip is thus maintained in itsfull assigned strength. The jacket material is preferably of suchcharacter that the water will not readily destroy it and a substantialstructure is thus formed so that after the jacketed-roll has beenimmersed in the water and the lotion squeezed out, the roll maybegrasped in the hand by the operator and then used as a brush or dauberfor applying the lotion to the hair strand to be waved,

as shown in Fig. 7, the jacket 5 being slid back to leave a free softend of the roll to serve this purpose.

As a means for checking the over saturation of the impregnated strip, 1have adopted the construction of not only putting them up in roll form,but also of using a certain amount of tension on the strip when itisbeing rolled up and some maybe rolled tight while others are made loose,and the latter will take up the water more quickly than the former, sothat for the same period of immersion the loose roll will absorb morewater than the tighter one. By regulating the winding tension on thestrip in forming the roll and using a given amount of tension I am ableto adjust or control the amount of water taken up by the roll eventhough it be immersed. in an excess of water.

The strips are each marked with an index notation, such as a numeralfrom No. 1, to No. '10, to indicate their relative strengths of thealkaline content of the lotion produced therefrom. In using the strengthor grade marks they may be applied directly to the strip, as shown inFigs. 1 to 4, and the same will show through the transparent jacket 5,or the marksmay be applied to the jacket, as shown in Figs. 5 and G, themarks so indicated in the drawings being the numeral 7, indicating No. 7grade of the lotion.

I have manufactured these strips of the various different strengths orgrades for the trade so that the users thereof may readily select thatgrade or number of strip which accords with the class number of the hairto be waved, which hair class number may be ascertained in any of theways set forth by me in my other copending application for patent,hereinabove mentioned, which refers to the determination of hair classesfrom the hairs liquid-absorptivity, elasticity or stretch. Or thehair-dresser may proceed independently to himself ascertain thehairlassof a customers hair at the time of waving it, by firstsample-waving different strands on the head, say three if the hairappears to be normal, or more if abnormal, using a different grade orstrength of the strip for each strand and noting the results. Forexample, he may wave one strand with .lotion strip No. 10, another withNo. 8 and another with No. 6, and then select the No. giving the bestresults. The customer upon once learning the number of the class otherhair, may utilize such information in subsequent hair wavlngs bydilierent hairailressers each of whom may be guided in his work by suchknown class number.

In this preliminary sample-waving of the strands to classify the hair,instead of using several separate strands with a different strength oflotion applied tov each, a single strand may have different sectionsthereof treated with. the different strengths of the lotion and afterthe waving thereof while wound on a curler-rod, asshown in Fig. 8, thedifferent sections may be examined to ascertain the best results andthat strength selected winch produced the best wave.

Having thus described my intention, what I claim and 'desireto secure byLetters Patent is:- I

1. In the art of pern'ianent waving of hair, a. series of pieces ol"absorbent material each impregnated. with a di erent assigned strengthof hair-treating substance on a graduated scale in the series, each ofsaid pieces being adapted to be immersed in a liquid and squeezed out toproduce a hairtreating lotion of its assigned. predetermined strengthadapted to be applied to a certain ascertained class of hair classifiedin accordance with its capacity to absorb liquid.

2. In the art of permanent waving of hair, a set of strips of absorbentma erial each impregnated with a different assigned strength ofhair-treating substance and sullicient in number to cover acorrespondingly assigned group of hair classes which have beenclassified in accordance with their respective capacities to absorbliquid, said strips being marked to indicate their strength value orgrade in correspondence with marks't'or indicating the classes of hairand being adapted to be placed in a liquid and then squeezed out toproduce a hairtreating lotion of its assigned grade.

liquidand then squeezedout to produce a hair-treating lotion, said piecebeing made into a roll and provided with a jacket or cover with the endsthereof open.

5. In the art of permanent waving of hair,

an appliance consisting ofa strip of absorbent material impregnated withhair-treating V substance and capable when immersed in a liquid andsqueezed outto provide a hair-v treating lotion, said strip beingprovided.

with a binding member -attached thereto,

said member being placed across one end of said'strip and the striprolled on it.

6. In the art of permanent waving of hair, an appliance comprising astrip of absorbent material impregnated with hair-treating substance andcapable when immersed in a 1 liquid and washed out to produce ahairtreatiug lotion, said stripbeing made up in roll form under certaintension in rolling the same. i I v i 7. In theart of permanent wavingot'hair, a series of pieces of absorbent material each impregnated with adilferent assigned strength of hair-treating substance ona graduatedscale in the series, each of said pieces being adapted to be immersed ina liquid and squeezed out to produce a hairtreating lotion oi? itsassigned predetermined strength. p

8. In the art of permanent waving of hair on the head by use of driedimpregnated rolled-strips of absorbent material, the method of varyingth-eliquid absorptivity ot the rollby varying the tension in rolling itinto form.

9. In the art of permanent hair waving,

absorbent material formed into a substantial body or roll andln'lpregnated with hairtreatmg substance and adapted to be soaked inliquid to form a hair-treating lotionand then used to daub the lotion ona hair to be treated.

10.111 the art of permanent hair waving,

strand of an appliance comprising absorbent material.

impregnated with hair-treating substance soluble in liquid to form aloti'on,.an'd a coving therefor of non-absorbent material encasing thesame with the exception of a comparatively small area thereof which. isleft uncovered for direct contact of the liquid with the uncoveredportion of the absorbent material. V

Signed at New Yorkcity, in the county. of New York and State of NewYork, this.

29th day of December, A. D. 1 926.

CHARLES .NESSLER.

